Repairing your own car

[Guest]

I recon its the EGR or the AIT sensor...

 

I have an OBD II tester if you need it..

 

I have just repaired mine today... What a difference it makes when it all working as it should!

[kaffeemitmilch 1,294]

When I was cleaning the throttle and intake manifold and ran the car without the filter, it ran fine and as well as it does in general. The filter's fairly clean though I will get a new one when I get the spark plugs from MisterAuto or whatever. That's the best site I've found.

 

Could be IAT or EGR. No codes are showing up, but who knows, eh? Did you clean your EGR or replace it, or the IAT? What do you drive?

[Guest]

The sensor cables from the EGR were coroded...

 

Bought a new connector with 25cm of new cable on then cut and connected to the old cables...

 

After that.. I did clean all the other sensors.. and sealed each of the vacuum pipe ends with a smearing of silicon paste and then secured with a small cable tie...

 

SP

 

Transit connect with 400k KM

[AKJeeper 30]

Have you tried Rockauto.com? I've been ordering a lot of parts from there lately. It's my understanding that they ship overseas and even have a European market vehicle selector (un-click the US flag, and click on the EU-flag to see EU models in the drop down list).

 

Do you have a scan tool that will show you the live datastream? If so - take a look at the IAT and CTS sensors on a cold start, as well as after the engine has warmed up. The IAT and CTS sensors should be pretty darn close to each other on a stone cold engine (key on, engine off), and approximately ambient temperature. The CTS should read somewhere around 100*C once the engine is fully warmed up, and the IAT a bit higher than ambient air (the intake manifold is hot from engine heat).

[kaffeemitmilch 1,294]

Hey guys, any recommendations for brands of these products here?

 

1. engine flush

2. additive to seal worn rings (the pellets that go into the combustion chamber would be nice)

 

The car has 160K on it and is burning oil and I'm trying to minimize this without having to get the engine rebuilt/getting a new engine.

[kaffeemitmilch 1,294]

BTW, the only brand I can find is LiquidMoly here. I'm thinking of getting some Lucas from the UK.

[Guest]

How much oil is it burning or are you experiencing black smoke from the exhaust, thus assuming oil burn?

[kaffeemitmilch 1,294]

I haven't really measured, but I think I'm having to add half a liter every 1000K. The smoke isn't particularly black.

[sosarx 1,661]

Smoke from burned oil isn't black but blue. Stand a while behind the car with running engine. Burnt oil stinks.

 

And half a litre on 1000 km is not little, but still not too much. And all those additives won't repair your engine resp. the rings. Money thrown out of the window. What makes a little difference though is the use of thicker oil, like 15/40 instead of e.g.5/40.

 

Edit: The valve stern sealings, Ventilschaftdichtug, is more like the reason behind.

[Guest]

I have searched a few forums and asked a mate in the UK..

 

He said that he thinks he read in the manual it uses half litre per 1000km...

 

Go take a look at your handbook just to make sure my mate wasnt shittin me...

[Krieg 15,027]

Is it a Golf? Some models are oil burners, specially if you do not use exactly the recommended oil.

[AnswerToLife42 2,491]

Concerning thicker motor oil:

The first number indicates the lowest temperatur the oil can be pumped.

15 means -25°C, 5 means -35°C.

The second number indicates the viscosity at 100°C:

40 -> 12.5mm²/s identical for both oils.

Unless you manage to keep the oil temperature below 40°C both oils have the same viscosity.

If you have an oil thermometer and it reads 100°C in the oil sump you will easily have a oil temperature above 200°C at the bottom of the pistons.

[kaffeemitmilch 1,294]

It's a '99 Lupo 1.4 16v 75hp AKQ engine code, which is shared by a few Polos. I'm not sure about Golfs. It's meant to burn half a liter per 1000k? I can't find anything in the manual. I've checked the forums, too.

 

Yeah I got some 15w40 for this change. But, since they're both 40 they're both the same at operating temperature, aren't they? Wouldn't I need something less viscous at operating temperature to reduce burning? I know flushing the engine might open up more gaps sometimes, but in the past, it has always helped, even with high mileage engines. What I'm not sure about is the additive for after. I'd like to give it a try all the same. The car's not worth getting a ring job done and what not.

 

I'm going to try the Hobbywerkstatt Frankfurt Nied: http://www.auto-lack.info/ . Has anyone tried them? Does anyone need to do work on their car and want to do it together? Would be nice to have company.

[Guest]

Check the PCV Hose...

This is the vent hose that goes from the crank case to the inlet manifold... (I think the Lupo has this.. the polo certainly did...)

 

Check it for oil... if there is excessive gunge in there, clean it and get the engine flushed out as it could be blocked/restricted oilways/vents in the engine block, forcing oil up the hose into the inlet manifold...

[Guest]

Before you start on the "stuck rings" saga...

 

treat yourself to one of these!

[kaffeemitmilch 1,294]

Are you talking about the breather pipe? It is indeed oily, and the cause of my problems before with the starting since it seems the engine was overfilled at the last oil change, OR it was the only outlet for a gummed up engine. I hope the flush works.

 

I haven't got any extra tools because the Hobbywerkstatt website says they have it all included when you rent a spot. So, though I need things like a compression tester, timing light, oil filter wrench, spark plug socket, etc., I figured I'd use theirs.

[kaffeemitmilch 1,294]

So with the help of SpiderPig, after an engine flush and oil change (the level was really low... I guess I've been checking it on a sloped surface), new spark plugs, air filter, and checking that the oil separator wasn't clogged, we'll see how it fares after 100 miles or so. It ran well, and though it could be psychological, it felt smoother.

[Quato 106]

The 1.4 16v 75hp AKQ , according to motortalk.de is quite known for beeing a bit patchy. Most noticed issues are defunct EGRs, defunct throttle sensors and a constructive issue with the crankhouse ventilation (therefore some models have been refitted with some kind of oilheater).

 

0,5l/1000km oil usage is said to be quite normal.

 

On the construction side, these engine's pistons tend to have tilt problems of up to 1.5°at top/bottom dead centre, wich might result in worn off pistonrings, depending on how the engine has been treated during the initial 5000km of it's life. Also important is to tread the engine carefully while still cold.

 

Cam belt and tension pulley are known to be patchy as well, as they wear off pretty fast. To have an eye on that and to change them at least all 60000km is highly recommended.

 

On the problems you described, I have a sneaky feeling about EGR and/or the throttle sensor. Nearly all problems I ever encountered with injection engines (frequently appearing/vanishing) were due to electric/sensor malfunctions, often just loose connectors or eroded cables.

 

btw: LiquidMoly is a qualitybrand, no problem to use it. People on the german forums mostly seem to use 10W40 with this engine, but this is recommended anyway if you're living at or drive to where it get's realy cold in winter (below -15°)

 

Good luck! ;)

[Guest]

We noticed the keilriemen ( formerly fan belt ) was a bit shiney, so that will be replaced...

 

Apart from that everything was in fair condition...

[kaffeemitmilch 1,294]

Ah, cheers Quato. I'll have a look.