Now you have to pity the Würm, Munich's other river. Had it listened to its mom (Mother Nature that is) and eaten all of its glaciers when it was younger, it may have grown up big and strong like its sister river, the Isar. Then, Munich would have been the Athens on the Würm! That is right, instead of its waters being drawn off to feed the grounds of the Lustheim castle, and English garden would have sprung up on its banks.
Alas, how does the Würm take its second fiddle fate? It quietly flows on oblivious to what could have been. At least it does not have to join the Isar directly as it flows into the Amper (around Dachau) which joins the Isar near Landshut.
Now the Würm does have one thing on the Isar, its pedigree. The Würm proudly flows past stately mansions, ancient nunneries and regent crime scenes – ha, take that Isar … and so the bike trip begins.
I had ridden the Starnberg to Tutzing section when I first arrived in Munich and remember it being very picturesque but also very slow with families strolling and enjoying the day, so I opted to go to Tutzing instead. Generally the trail around the lake is well marked and easy enough for even the most map-challenged to follow (remember; keep lake on left hand shoulder). Unfortunately there is not a continuous trail as such, instead a succession of bike paths, quiet streets and a few insanely busy secondary roads with Porsches and Beamers zooming buy you.
There is a ridge that you need to cross south of Bernried. The hill would be a challenge for very young children but otherwise is not insurmountable.
The area around Seeshaupt has that summer village feel to it with lots of spots to pull out and enjoy the lake. Probably the best somewhat private and accessible beach front on the lake is as you turn north generally between Sankt Heinrich and Ambach. Don’t expect a sandy expanse but it does offer families a chance to stake a small bit of territory and let their children run amok to their heart’s content. Along this stretch I closed my eyes frequently to the pedestrian only signs otherwise there is a secondary highway with no shoulder.
Near the town of Berg, make sure you take the detour to see the Votivkapelle, which is the memorial to the spot where the mad king drowned. A chapel has been built and an Iron cross marks the spot of where he met his end (along with his physician) but began one of the great Bavarian mysteries about the circumstances of his death.
As you ride north along the east bank of the Starnbergsee, take a gander at the homes. The range from small wood cabins (in classic Bavarian cottage style), to huge Romanesque palaces with the occasional art deco or modern one thrown in for good measure. In one of these homes I noticed the owner tinkering on his car. Just a Saturday afternoon mechanic working on his burnt orange Lamborghini! I thought of playing a little game I like to call, count the Porsches. Alas, they were so numerous that it did not seem very sporting.
Well, 100,000 EUR cars aside, that is the ride around the Starnbergsee from Tutzing to Nord Starnberg S-Bahn; total distance, about 38KM. Younger families could make use of the ferries on the lake to avoid the hill around Bernried and make the best use of a beach day. Older pre-teens+ could easily complete the ride with ample ice cream refuelling stops… and if they have a little more ambition, there is always that wanna be Isar...
The ride out along the Würm essentially follows the S-5 route back into the city. The route south of Gräfelfing goes through nice forest, urban areas and one golf course (not sure how I got there). By Gräfelfing I had trouble finding and following route along the river so I struck off through the city leaving behind Munich’s other river.
At 68KM, this complete trip is a good half day ride for the intermediate or a day ride for a family with older kids. You are never far from a train (or a ferry which can take you to a train), gas stations and ice cream. A road bike would find the trails a bit slow and rough in places.
And, as far as cycling write ups, this is it. I do not expect to have myself and an adequate bike ever again in Munich (although never say never), so this is my last trail report. Hopefully the past posts have help at least a few people get out and enjoy the incredible cycling richness around this great city. I know by making these notes and taking various photos that I will have fond memories of these rides (and a means of jogging the brain cells to remember them!).
Date: 26-Aug-2006
Starting Point: Tutzing
Weather Warm (19C) Sunny with intermittent cloud variable wind
Route: Donnersbergerbrücke > Tutzing > (cost 7.80 – 1 person + bike) n/a
Teutzing > Nord Starnberg 38KM apprx.
Nord Starnberg > Donnersbergerbrücke 30KM apprx.
Map Ref.: München/Alpenvorland, ADFC-Regionalkarte, ISBN 3-783870732066
Cycling – Tutzing to Munich via the Würm