Cycling day trip - Salzburg and Golling

Date: 26-June-2005
Starting Point: Golling (Austria)
Weather Hot (25C) Sunny with intermittent showers
Route: Munich HBf > Salzburg – D-Bahn
Salzburg > Golling – Austrian S-Bahn n/a
Golling > Salzburg – Bike 30KM apprx.
Salzburg town – Bike 2KM est.
Salzburg > Anthering – Bike 32KM apprx.
Map Ref.: Radwander-Karte: Salzburg - Chiemgau Berchtesgaden Mangfallgebirge 1:100K

Feeling a bit more fit after a few months of cycling, I thought that it was time for something a more adventurous then the trips I had been doing in and around Munich – so it was off to Salzburg.

My wife is a big fan of the sound of music and typically watches it every Christmas. Being a loving husband I always oblige her with my presence (actually it is a cute movie). As a result I thought that I knew Salzburg. Well I was even more impressed – but I am getting ahead of myself.

The train trip on the local DB train is about 2 hours from Munich HBf to Salzburg HBf. There is a frequent S-Bahn South to Golling. In total our travel time was about 4 hours to the start of the ride with a cost of 80EUR split two ways.

Getting off the train, the route is very well signed and there were very few surprises (other than the steady drizzle which greeted us at the start). A few times the cycle trail will leave the river and climb up and down through farm country (a mild grind up and a good scream coming down in rain). From Hallein to Sazlburg, the ride is entirely along a the river. A limestone shale made a good mess of my bike (and unfortunately I discovered the neighbourhood car wash closes at 9PM – 10 minutes prior to my arrival – shale covered and all).

Expect lots of families, cyclists and people putzing. On a rainy day, there were was enough space to zip around the slower moving ones. This might be more difficult on a sunny Sunday afternoon in the summer.

Before long the fortress of Salzburg began to loom in the Northern distance and slightly more than an hour peddling we are in Salzburg.

If you are new to Munich and have not visited the city, a definite must see. Lots of neat narrow streets, alley ways and shops to take your money. The fortress was reasonable (10EUR each including the Funicular ride) and interesting.

After a making a brief foray into Salzburg we decided to continue heading north. The Austrian S-Bahn line goes a far as Trimmelkam. About 30KM north of Salzburg – unfortunately we never made it that far.

After a good 40 minute burn my back tire had the unmistakeable wobble of a flat. Even worse, the spare tube that I have faithfully carried around for years (and never being unfortunate enough to use) was missing. Fishing around, my cycling partner discovered that he was prepared enough with a tube. Fate was not finished with me however as I was removing the axle nut, the ‘bone wrench’ snapped neatly in two. Fortunately some kind Italian cyclists produced a crescent wrench and the repair was made in short order.

By this time our riding window prior to the train departure had narrowed and we returned nearly the way we came.

The Salzburg area is of interest to most riders. Some mountain bike trails beckon from the map while the beginner or family riders can enjoy good trails and nearby train service. Intermediate riders should try to stretch the ride all the way to BurgHausen where they can pick up the DB return to Munich.

I am looking forward to return to the Salzburg area. I will probably stay overnight to avoid spending 8 hours of good ride time sitting on a train. When the desk bulge is a bit less and the lungs a bit more, I would even try heading further up river (Bischofshofen) and try to stretch the ride into ~120KM.

Standard Caveat: use this information at your own risk. Distances are estimates from reviewing the map after the fact and a bike computer. As this trip involves distances that are relatively isolated, ensure your bike is in good working condition before starting out. Always carry plenty of fluids, food and clothing in case you are stranded for a period of time. Respect the two legged creatures that share the pathways – remember, someday you may also be a pedestrian.

Phrank, thanks for that! I love getting new ideas for rides.