Reality of living in Munich

Hello folks!
I'd like to ask people who live and know Munich well to help us understand the city better. We are planning on moving either there or Düsseldorf sometime in the future. We are not in Germany yet. We have visited Munich twice: once for Octoberfest 2006 (very rainy and cold, didn't see the city at all), and this year when we stayed full two days there. Since the first trip was destroyed by rain (and too much beer consumption but of course!), here are my impressions from the second trip:
It was the weekend when Munich and Stuttgart soccer game took place. I expected lots of people on the streets partying like in other cities. The streets were like everyone moved out or left for the weekend (Saturday morning until Sunday early afternoon). Beergartens were kinda full, and this was great. We drove all around the city trying to get the feel of it. No matter what, I couldn't find even remote feel of a large city in Munich. The main shopping are around Marienplatz was empty on Sunday (we left around 1PM to go back), couldn't see too many people enjoying gorgeous Sunday outside of their homes, shopping stores were all of some flavor of Karstadt (are there Kauhoff or other stores in Munich?). So not sure what to think. Munich is a world known city and everyone raves about it (see the post of Stuttgart vs Munich comparison), but I just couldn't find it at all exciting.

So here is what i wanna ask you folks who live and love it there: could you describe what is the culture of the city, what should we look for the next time we go there (and we are planning to go there again), what is that people do there that makes them stay there forever and know that Munich is the best. Im not into clubs so Schwabing area is so-so for us. Alps are 2 hours away so they are NOT in the city (close proximity is great, but I wanna know about the city itself since this is where people live). Please don't take this the wrong way: I'm not putting Munich down, I just wanna know what to see and what to do in order to see the real Munich. Come on folks, this is your time to say all the best about Munich.

P.S. I'm trying to compare it to Heidelberg or Frankfurt areas, or Vienna in Austria, since these are cities what we know pretty well.

Check out the search as there is lots of discussion that will cover some of what you are asking.

about Munich.

I guess its best to do some reading and then compare it to what you've experienced. thereafter, try to match the whole thing with what people will have to say here

depends on what you're looking for. for me it's ideal but others not so much
safety - check
beautiful altstadt - check
good flight connections - check
world class public transport - check
big lakes - check
mountains - check (only 45 mins away, not 2 hrs!)
world class skiing, climbing, MTB - check (30-40 world class ski resorts within daytrip distance)
clean - check
Oktoberfest - check
clubbing - check (though if this is your #1 priority then go to Berlin)
Close proximity to Italy and Switzerland - check
frequent rain - check
winter fog/humidity - check
friendly people - check
crusty people - check
pricey real estate - check

My first trip to Munich was a 3 day business trip, arriving on the day after Oktoberfest ended, the weather was crap and it was generally depressing in the city (Wiesn hangover). When I arrived for my 2nd trip the following March it was a foehn day with sunny views to the alps from the airport. that was my welcome wagon and I've lived here ever since.

There's your mistake summed up. Take public transport, preferably bus or streetcar, look out the windows and up, get out somewhere and walk to your next stop. Take time to visit the beergardens - after all, you're not driving! - or just sit on a bench in the park or next to the Isar. Lehel, for example, is different from Westend although both are a mix of residential and commercial, while the new quarters such as Neuperlach or Riem could be a totally different city.

True. You get the amenities (theaters, cinemas, public transport, health services etc.) of a city with a population of 1.3 mio without being rushed off your feet by hectic metropolitans who have a 45 minute one-way driving commute within city limits. The different areas of the city have their own personalities, Munich as a whole is what you make of it.
For international flair you should try Hamburg.

Where do you find big lakes around Munich? I can see one, possibly two, lakes of decent size, but big and plural?

Ammersee, Starnbergersee, Pilsensee, Wörthsee & Weßlingersee to name but a few (ok, sure they're not in Munich proper, but close enough)

Even Chiemsee is close enough for a day out.
The river Isar is adequate for an afternoon out.
And the mountains are close enough for a weekend away.
And Italy, Switzerland, Czech, Austria and Lichtenstein are all close enough for a long weekend.

But the city itself doesn't offer a great deal. Unless you like art museums and monuments.
For nightlife, Schwabing is characterless, Haidhausen is bitty. City centre is touristy and big business. It's all too spread out.
The Beergardens are great. Plenty of parks and cycle paths. And some suburban parts are nice, but probably no better than other cities.

Munich lacks something special. No major geographical feature combined with the Munich snobbishness puts it lower on the list for many.

@OP

I'm pretty sure you got the wrong impression of Munich. The shopping areas such as Marienplatz would be quiet on a Sunday as all the shops are closed. Most people would be in one of the many parks/museums/cafes in areas such as Schwabing for example, which isn't a clubbing area at all, but has some good cafes/bars etc. Alternatives include strolling along the river Isar/visiting the zoo or to venture out of town to lakes, mountains...

If you're after shopping try Saturday and the pedestrian zone area will be packed and there are certainly more than enough shops (numerous Karstadts and Kaufhofs since you were asking). There are also other shopping areas and malls that you can get to very easily by public transport.

I'm not 100% sure what you are looking for, but it seems to me like you didn't go to the right places when you came to visit...

Like others said before you can't drive around Munich and get a feel for it. Cycle or walk around and I'm sure you'll enjoy it much more than you did before.

I moved to Munich from DC last year. One of my biggest disappointments about DC was the people. Although I was eventually successful, it was difficult to build meaningful friendships there. Everyone was either too busy, already had a core group of friends, or was an outright jerk. Here in Munich (just like in DC) there are a lot of transients/new arrivals, but they tend to be more focused on enjoyment than work and are more eager to build friendships. The same applies to the expats who have been here longer -- ~90% of them are very cool people. Maybe it's because they're for the most part Europeans. Of the North Americans in Munich perhaps it's because we're the kind who wanted to leave North America. Anyway, to me the people are one of the best things about Munich, and with the exception of "something special is missing," the things that pranaman, sarabyrd, and ian mention are all absolutely true.

Exactly and is the main reason why Munich is so great for me.

Can you give him an example of that what is "something special" here for you?

^Friday Beergarden, of course!

Picnic tables and barbeques in public parks (Westpark might have tables, I know that there are bbqs)

I've only used them once as they are mostly taken, or crowded. I wonder how many people stay in Munich because of those picnic tables?
But what I meant was some unique or rare attribute or feel or feature of the city.
The beergardens go a long way in that direction for me. But I go to them to get away from the rest of the city.