Die Kuh die lacht - Frankfurt

Die Kuh die lacht. And not a bit of soft processed cheese in sight.

From the people behind the MoschMosch noodle-bar chain comes this burger-bar concept: locally-sourced organic Angus beef, bread rolls from the Watterau, "Lavasteingrill" (no, me neither). Will it leave me mooing with pleasure or is that rather jolly cow actually laughing at me?

First impressions are not entirely good. The dining area is almost a mallet-shape with a curved handle, and the space seems awkward. The front section feels isolated whilst the back one appears surprisingly cramped. The atmosphere could do with a little tuning too: the acoustics are a little flat, the sound a touch cold.

This place has high aspirations and it does look the part. The design is all dark, solid woods and muted browns, stalactite light fixtures and discreet cow artefacts dotted around the room. Then they go and spoil it by making you order from the till and pay upfront.

But does the concept get in the way of the food? The burgers are good. Though not the way I prefer (I like mine charred and carcinogenic on the outside and mooing on the inside), they are well-cooked throughout, yet remain juicy and tender. At the very least, they taste like they were once intimately acquainted with an actual cow, whether she was laughing or not. The rolls and the garnishes are fresh. The sauces are not exactly disctinctive. In short, very enjoyable, but not exactly an orgasmic experience.

The burgers (€5.75-€7.25) come in beef, chicken or veggie. Extras (e.g. cheese, bacon) and sauces (e.g. bbq, mustard) are €0.50 each. Chips €2. Hefeweizen beer (0.5l) €3.

Schillerstraße 28
60313 Frankfurt
Tel.: 069 2729 0171
Website: Die Kuh die lacht
U/S-Bahn: Hauptwache or Eschenheimer Tor
Opening hours: Monday-Saturday 11am-11pm